Dear Reader I have my red velour muslin for my McCalls jacket cut out! Finally! but I must confess I got sidetracked again. I saw an intriguing little pattern in Burdastyle 6/2010
The 109 dress with under bust gathers that curve around the waist.
The Original Pieces
I had some bargain-table retro looking knit in my stash from last summer. Upon consideration of my body and a few PR reviews I decided that gathers along my waist would not work and that I would move the horizontal seam up to just under my ribcage. The picture below is my first 'move the seam up' draft. You may also notice in the photo that I hadn't cut along the back seam yet. Even though I could have put the piece on the fold I deliberately put a seam along the foldline to break up the large print and to bring the back neck in a bit.
When made up the front was rather amusing.
I liked where the side seams sat so I proceeded to unpick the rest of the seam and take out fullness all along the gathering line.
Almost there. This is what you get when you start experimenting. Pretty soon I was left with no gathers at all.
But I did get a dress I could wear and be happy with. In fact, I like it a lot!
On the technical side: here is what my revised pattern pieces look like.
The sleeve is lovely, close fitting but comfortable. I am forever taking the too high sleeve ease out of sleeve caps. In fact I tend to judge patterns by the care and expertise given to the sleeve draft. This one reminded me of something I'd read on Kathleen Fasanella's website: