As you may know I am in the midst of making a liberty shirtdress from no 117 from the May 2011 issue. Warning: there may be a rant approaching. Firstly I have to say I love Burdastyle magazines. They are more likely to have some items that are just a bit more up to date than any of the big pattern companies. They draft for a body that resembles mine a bit more than any of the big companies except maybe Kwik Sew. They presume that you know what you are doing which is both a blessing and a curse. Occasionally they come out with an issue that makes me go "Ah I'd like to sew this and this and this".
In regard to their instructions, I have a love/hate relationship. This is how it went with this dress. I think to myself "Hey I've been sewing for a long time. I've made shirts and dresses and shirtdresses. I can figure out what they mean". Then I read through the instructions and sure enough and there is always a bit concerning a shirt or coat collar where I go "What the heck do they mean?" then "Never mind, I'll just go ahead and do what I think they mean". I assembled the collar, easy enough.
When I sewed them together I closed off the angled seams at the bottom, 'seam 7', then stitched the collar to the neck then thought 'That doesn't look right". I'd misread the instructions. Out with the unpicker.
My make -do tracing - waxed kitchen paper and texta!
At this point I think If only I had a picture or three, I wouldn't care if they don't write anything!" Luckily there was a picture of the collar in another closeup of the dress.
This of course, matched the line drawing. I had a little 'boy do I feel dumb' moment. You treat 'seam 7' as part of the collar and attach the collar all in one go. I think. Well that's what I did and it worked. If someone can decipher their instructions and post a detailed explanation I will be truly grateful. I'm not sure if there was a pivot point as I had already trimmed the collar seam allowances on my first go around.
The instructions do say to make a sandwich - by that I mean attach the back facing to the front facing extensions, sew the fronts closed to the centre front points, then making a collar sandwich. I had reached the stage where this was what I was going to do whether they said to or not!
Rant disclaimer: The collar, the front, the sleeves, are all beautifully drafted. I modified the back and unpegged the skirt but I'm sure on the right body they would be good as well. I'm still pleased with how it is all going. The little inbuilt collar stand is so comfortable.
I'm working on the voile lining as the liberty is too lightweight on it's own, dark but almost sheer. Oh and the hem is not uneven but the way I am standing..
More to follow stay tuned!