Do any of you remember the pleated vertical welt pocket pants that I made in white linen using Burda 1/2010/106 ? See post HERE? I liked the fit of them and I wanted some plain slimline black pull on pants ever since I saw 'Goodbye Valentino's blog about her Style Arc Elle pants, which look amazing. See her pants in the LINK here. They are gorgeous but I wanted something a little bit more like Style Arc LINDA. Style Arc is a relatively new australian independent pattern company and their stuff looks pretty good. I haven't bought any yet!
I'd seen the Linda worn on a sewing friend while I was in Europe. Back in Australia, I considered buying the pattern on line, then I thought 'No, they are 'simple, I can do that!' I bought some black ponti knit from Spotlight on sale, modified the Burda pants and here is the result.
Slim pants and .. some Easter weight that I am slowly starting to work off!
Here's the process. See if you have a pattern for slimline jeans or pants designed 'for stretch wovens only'. A while back Burda magazine seemed to have some in every issue. Trace them off keep to the basic pant shape, pinching out any darts or pleats. Here I am comparing my pattern pieces to an existing pair of very skinny RTW jeans. I wanted them straight but not that tight.
I added enough length to make them full length with a generous hem.
Check that the crotch length is adequate buy comparing your belly button to mid back measurement through the crotch to the front + back crotch lengths of your pattern.
Make two straight waistband pieces, one the length of the finished waist of the front of your pants and the another for the back. The width is twice whatever width of elastic you want to use plus seam allowances. When you sew the sides of the waistbands together leave a hole that will face the inside for elastic to go through. Stitch the seams open crosswise at the centre to make everything sit smoothly.
After you've assembled your pants by sewing centre fronts, centre backs then the sides and inner legs, attach your doubled over waistband. If you don't have a serger use a narrow zig zag stitch then go beside it with another row of zig zag for reinforcement. That is the only seam finishes you need, trimming off the excess that a serger would do.
Pin the waistband to mark the centre front and centre back so you can match it to the seams.
Serge it on, going slowly over the humps where all the seams are.
Measure the length of your elastic against your waist. The elastic will sit quite firmly in the casing when it is all finished.
I cover stitched the seam from the outside as well to give a neater look. A narrow zig zag would do if you don't have a cover stitcher.
Tip: mark your elastic before threading it in to make sure you haven't twisted it. Now thread it through.
Secure with straight stitching.
Then try the pants on and fold up the hem. I needed to take in the pants slightly down the sides at this stage. After fine tuning I cover stitched the hem from the outside then trimmed off the excess from the inside - carefully!
That's it, step by step. My knock off Linda pants. If this quasi tutorial helps anybody please comment and let me know.