Readers, In this part I go up to making the first muslin.
Previously I had gone as far as measuring up and making my frames, crease lines and side seam marks.
It was time to have my first go at the crotch curve. I had measured my total front to back crotch distance. I already knew it was deeper than average, by 5cm as described in Part 1 when sitting down with a ruler and measuring from waist to chair. I know I have a sway back and a forward tilt to my pelvis when standing at my normal stance and also as you will see, a slight sideways tilt.
My highest thigh circumference is actually 3cm less than the 'average' in the book so my crotch curve did not need a longer extension between the legs - the pointy bits at the ends of the curve could be regular length. I have a roundish butt and would somehow need to take that into consideration. All this was going through my mind to try to visualize what my real crotch curve should look like. It made me wish I could get a life size MRI scan. The next best high tech instrument I had on hand was aluminum foil.
My text is Pattern Cutting by Dennic Chunman Lo
I had read about making a foil rope and moulding it to the complete crotch curve, but it is very hard to prize off my body in the true shape so I did it in two parts, front then back and I folded the foil flat rather than make a twist.
I tried to translate these to paper..
This is the 'corrected' crotch curve because when I pulled it off my body it sloped outwards..
I thought ''That can't be right can it?" Well it was, but not to that extent. More about that later.
I thought the back looked about right.Hmm..I have a wider torso front to back than the text book. Now I had a working draft of the crotch.
The brown dash line is where the back crotch line would be according to the book. I kept the original angle but in effect did a deeper scoop.
The legs are drawn in, the purple line. I had two goes at the back darts, because I drew them in before I did the waist edge. Duh. I eliminated the front darts as per my measurements.
Time to cut out the calico. I added 2.5 cm to all seams except the leg hems. In other words one inch all around to add ease and to give me some room for error.
I sewed 1.5cm (5/8") seams in my largest straight machine stitch.
I sewed them up and tried them on, holding them up with a piece of elastic tied around the waist to determine the true waistline, something I read in the 'Fit' books mentioned in Part 1.
People I warned you there would be unflattering photos in the name of sewing research..
In all seriousness the result while it did not feel too bad on, it needs tweaking. The front is almost there but the back needs work. See the side hip cat's whiskers? I need more ease high up at the sides. Then there are the baggy drag lines from side hip to knee. What to do there? I know that pull lines and drag lines are pointers to problem areas. Tight ripples mean material needs to be added, usually to where they are pointing. If they hang and bag material needs to be taken away. I've got a classic case of both!
BTW I learnt this in a jacket fitting article in Threads. When I find which one I will reference it. As mentioned before I will do a full reference list at the end of the series.
Back to the drawing board. More to come in Part 3.