Dear Sewing Friends,
Most of you know I have been drafting a pants block following instructions in the book Pattern Cutting by Dennic Chunman Lo. In my previous two posts I covered my journey in drafting a block and getting as far as a first muslin. I got to the the point where I had to deal with my own body's individual shape and that is where the book and I parted company.
The crotch is the crux of the matter. Pun intended. If the crotch curve, depth and angle are not right nothing will be right and it's that not quite right fit or baggy pantsville forever. No way! Crotch curve or die!
I had done one of two methods I had read about, the aluminum foil templates. This had limited results. I then went and bought myself the equipment for another method I had read about, using a flexible rule.
I bought this at Lincraft and had another go. The idea is you put an elastic band on it, mold the entire curve to your crotch from front to back then move the elatsic band to mark your mid line and somehow get that thing off while maintaining the complete curve. Now unless you are Olga Korbut I suspect you need a sewing buddy to help get the bendy rule off you. I at least, could not seem to do it properly by myself. While it did give me a good idea of the crotch shape I wanted to be exact and I racked my brains for what I could do and the light bulb went on.
I would measure a favourtie pair of almost worn out jeans and transfer the markings. I don't know if you've ever really looked at a worn out garment before throwing it out but it will take on the shape of your body. If you have been lucky enough to find a perfectly fitting pair of RTW pants keep them when they are worn out to copy.
Previously, when I had done a front crotch template with the foil I suspected that I had to move the CF over a little but now I was sure.
I redrew my pants block. What I had taken away from the CF and CB I had to add to the sides and in terms of the back, maintain the angle of the tilt of the torso.
In the meantime I had also started to work on the legs trying to take in the back leg. Here I have taken out a narrow diagonal crease from low side hip to knee level.
You cannot have a back leg side seam that differs too drastically to side front leg side seam because they have to go together in a way that will not pull and the finished lengths of these seam lines have to be the same. (From Threads magazine articles that I will reference at the end of the series).
Also because of the slight curving at the waist and hip, the side seam will end up 1cm to 1.5 cm longer than the original frame measurement of waist to floor. (From Pattern Cutting).
Ok, now I had enough room around my waist and hips but still had a baggy under ass/thigh area. I fiddled, I put on high heels. It wasn't a lower leg propping things up issue. I tried narrowing the back leg by a 4mm at each side. This helped but my Ah Ha! moment came when I did this..
Happy times! This has been a long post. I will transfer the cross thigh reduction fold to my pants block and cut out a wearable muslin.
The cotton is flapping in the breeze, drying.
Have a good day,