Sunday, 15 December 2013

Butterick 5850 Fail or Thank Goodness I Made a Muslin

Dear Sewists,

Once again, I have been sewing like crazy but not blogging so this is another quick post before I hit my little machine again and sew, sew, sew. My friend's engagement party is at the end of this week and I had visions of B5850 made up in silk and finished by now so I could go out shopping like the rest of the world, catch up with people, relax a bit, you know?

B5850 had other plans. It's hanging here, unfinished, unhemmed. I've moved on and I may get back to it in the New Year. I do not know.

No, it hasn't grown legs. The ties are long enough to cross over at the back then tie in a bow at the front and still hang down to the hem.

So what's wrong? There is nothing wrong with the pattern as such. It's just wrong for me, or wrong in my trial rayon, or just wrong on me right now. Whatever, it's just wrong.

I can almost hear you say, but it's cute, almost oriental. What's the matter with you? Well. Something happens when I put on this dress. It turns frumpy. There is too much fabric going on at the neck, a double layer of fold, then pleat, then crossover. The front edge is on the grain, so the sides are off grain and thus prone to stretching. If I did this dress out again I would put the fronts on the conventional grain, stabilize the front edges then do away with the lined and folded over two inch wide facing. 

On me the ties are too wide and too long. I would make the tie separate and removable. The side seams need stabilization because of the grain issues and also for the zip. I realized this after the fact. 
I lined the skirt. This is not included in the pattern instructions or layout but most thin materials will need it.

I feel guilty pointing out this pattern's faults. It is not bad, you know. Just not good enough on me at this time to risk my expensive silk crepe from Tessuit's.

What now? Many phone photo consultations with my daughter later and another pattern chosen, I have just finished another muslin of what is basically a classic sheath. 
Dear Reader, it works. Sheath dresses never used to work on me. It's a mystery.
I have today off so I am working on it right now. There will be a photo, even if it is taken at the party.

Happy Pre Christmas & Busy-ness to you all,



  1. Oh, that's disappointing, but glad to hear the sheath dress is a success.

  2. Dear Val, so sorry the pattern did not work for you, but wonderful that you have found a solution for your beautiful silk fabric. As you say, thank goodness for the muslin. Like most sewists I have had similar experiences, where an interesting pattern ends up too much, too fussy, too overwhelming, and looks anything but the elegant garment I had in mind. Being a shortie doesn't help, does it :) PS I have started on my white linen bought in Sydney. Fingers crossed! Happy sewing..

    1. Yes Patricua longer legs and a longer neck would have helped :) I look forward to seeing your linen made up.

  3. So sorry this dress didn't work out.. But proud you moved on to a new pattern .[Know it will be pretty..] Merry Christmas to you and your family..

  4. That really does look like a onesy with built in feet. The fabric is lovely. Sorry it didn't work for you. You can't beat a classic sheath IMO.

    1. A onesie with a dropped crotch. Too funny.

  5. You have to follow you own instincts. I really love your new fabric.

  6. Good thing you did make a muslin, because that silk crepe is gorgeous. Can't wait to see the sheath dress.