Monday, 26 May 2014

Archer progress report, adding a bust dart

Do you remember my previous post where I described the technique of putting the front opening and plackets off grain, as described by Roberta Carr in Palmer/Pletsch 'Couture, The Art of Fine Sewing'? 

It really works! My Archer hasn't got cuffs or collar  or buttons yet and I am tweaking the side seams still but see that front? It hangs and does not separate. It was definitely worth doing.

And...For the first time ever, I added a dart to a straight shirt front. Properly.

My two references were 'Couture' already mentioned and the Threads Sewing Guide. link to page about drafting darts. For Australians reading I want to share that I ordered the book from and the postage was a fraction compared to buying the book from an overseas company.

The threads book describes the whole draft-a-dart process much better than I can, so I am not going to ramble on except to say this is a shortened regular dart, not an FBA.

I  figured out and marked my bust apex on my pattern according to Roberta Carr's instructions, then drafted a modest dart according to Threads' instructions.

I, never having done this before, didn't realize I'd end up with that vertical spread, or that I would have to move the side hem down a bit. See how my horizontal red slash line don't meet anymore? Or that at the end of it all I would have to take the sides back in again. eesh.. but

I may just end up with a TNT shirt pattern and that would be worth it, don't you think?

Happy Sewing,



  1. It is looking fantastic! And the fabric you chose is really pretty!

  2. Drafting terrifies me - I am seriously impressed Val, you really know what you are doing there. Love that shirt fabric, and the finished garment will look beautiful. Happy Sewing!

  3. Looks so nice! Way to go!!!!

  4. Oh wow, so worth it! And I'm going to go look at the couture book, love reading good sewing books. Great fabric, Val - looks pretty already!

  5. Looking good. I shall have to stop by this post when I start to do my first shirt.

  6. Thank you ladies. The material was a find at Spotlight at the end of last year.
    Patricia the truly terrifying thing about drafting of any sort is what a time-sucker it is. Prepare to fall down a vortex.
    BeeJay thank you!
    Coco, I love getting it out just for a read as well.

  7. Your shirt is coming along very nicely. All of the extra work you're putting into the fit will be worth it in the end. The print is so nice, and looks very good on you. I can't wait to see the finished garment!

  8. It's looking really nice so far!

  9. Your shirt is looking amazing and you will definitely have a TNT pattern when you finish. Interesting about the off grain, I need to read this a bit more.

  10. Thanks ladies. Sharon, I wish I knew about it the last time I made a coat.

  11. Looking good, Valerie! Can't wait to see the finished product :)