Do you remember my previous post where I described the technique of putting the front opening and plackets off grain, as described by Roberta Carr in Palmer/Pletsch 'Couture, The Art of Fine Sewing'?
It really works! My Archer hasn't got cuffs or collar or buttons yet and I am tweaking the side seams still but see that front? It hangs and does not separate. It was definitely worth doing.
And...For the first time ever, I added a dart to a straight shirt front. Properly.
My two references were 'Couture' already mentioned and the Threads Sewing Guide. link to page about drafting darts. For Australians reading I want to share that I ordered the book from Booktopia.com.au and the postage was a fraction compared to buying the book from an overseas company.
The threads book describes the whole draft-a-dart process much better than I can, so I am not going to ramble on except to say this is a shortened regular dart, not an FBA.
I figured out and marked my bust apex on my pattern according to Roberta Carr's instructions, then drafted a modest dart according to Threads' instructions.
I, never having done this before, didn't realize I'd end up with that vertical spread, or that I would have to move the side hem down a bit. See how my horizontal red slash line don't meet anymore? Or that at the end of it all I would have to take the sides back in again. eesh.. but
I may just end up with a TNT shirt pattern and that would be worth it, don't you think?