Dear Blog Readers,
This post is brought to you from La Casa del Flu. I Can Not Believe I Have The Flu again. I won't go into theories as to why. The good thing is I have time and (just) enough energy to finish my first Archer, take some snaps and blog, some of my favourite things to do ..
The Archer is my first Grainline pattern but probably not the last. It is beautifully drafted, well thought out, has a very cute collar and slimline feminine styling, unlike baggier Vogue or Burda shirt styles that I have made in the past.
Front, not so bad .
From my own flat measuring of the pattern I did a 12 body and sleeves with a 13 (cutting between 12 and 14) neck and shoulders but there's nothing like a muslin to show you the real thing.
All the sizes are nested within each other and the length and shape of the shirt does not change. Normally larger sizes are graded with a bit more ease built in. These aren't graded that way but it does stay true to the shape.
I had heard the instructions were good and I wanted to try them as written.
It took me a while to note that 'white is right' and dark is the reverse side as I followed the instructions. The collar construction instructions are very good, but tricky!
Here's all the problems in one shot. On the next shirt I am also thinking of doing a trick I read about of swinging the the centre front out slightly which takes it off grain, which makes it hang straight. The button band has to be cut the same way. I'll describe it more when I do it.
So, how to do proper adjustments? I considered adding a dart to the front, but as most of the problem is at the back and can, in my case I think, be fixed with more body ease and going up a size. I downloaded another print, (it's so good to be able to do that) then adjusted as I taped.
For the body I cut Size 14 and a bit extra at the sides, which I can take in if it goes too big. There's only half a cm between sizes on all the main seams, as you can see above. I wanted to incorporate some neck and shoulder ease too.
The red vertical lines are a .5 cm gap and the red horizontal lines are a 1.5 cm adjustment to length. I put it in where the print out pages overlap. Handy ! I added .5 vertical line of ease to the back yoke and to the collar and stand. I cut the armholes a scant 3mm deeper. The sleeves will have a bit extra at the armscye width to correspond to the deeper yoke and widened body.
What you do to one piece you have to do to every corresponding piece. Been caught out on that one before.
I am using a lovely blue and white voile (it's in my new header above) and have another go.
My fit needs vary from most bloggers and reviewers that have made this pattern but the pattern itself is a quality product.
Sew something soon,