In my previous post I had used an old OOP burda jeans pattern for wovens in a stretch fabric and had both crotch and back thigh issues. I did a quick fix by putting a elongated diamond patch at the crotch junction and they sit better now. Then I thought, hey the Burda crotch curve fits me, I should buy a updated Burda jeans pattern for stretch fabrics. I'd made a self drafted pants pattern last year for wovens but stretch is a different animal.
So I bought Burda 7863 at a spotlight sale, along with some stretch sateen in a summery print and went for it.
The front is good and the legs fall well. The pattern has the classic jean pockets and fly facing details, not that I wear anything tucked in to show them off!
The instructions are good too. I made sense of the fly construction and I like the facings that go all the way to the centre front. I had to tweak the legs though. They had to be cut slimmer than the pattern to get slimline capri proportions. The back leg then had to be trimmed further from knee to ankle at the inner leg because it swung around and was visible from the front. However, I still got back thigh to knee concertina folds at the back.
Now, I have to tell you I tried pinning along various creases on the diagonal from knee to hip or crotch to knee and it all affected to way the leg hangs. I considered whether or not to shift just the lower leg out or in.
That was not the answer. Then I compared the back piece to the burda leggings post I make and wear every winter and have come to the conclusion that I need a sliver more off the inside of the back inner leg but tapering to just below the crotch.
So, that's what I will try next, for me that is. Right now I will leave the pants headache alone and make an outfit for DD.
Thanks for reading,