Monday, 5 January 2015

Alder Dress


A while ago when the Grainline Alder dress first came out I down loaded it, assembled it, took flat measurements, fiddled with it..then put it away. I think that was because I couldn't squeeze it out of my trial-run fabric or something. I got distracted with other things, as I tend to do.

Yesterday I finally pulled it out again along with this piece of stash batik print cotton and set to doing a quick Alder after half the blog world and then some had made it. I loved the Archer and this is so similar, especially to my altered Archer My Archer  ;)

I cut a 14 and found it too roomy then took the sides in to a 12. It is still loose, but in a good way. It has a nice swing.









There were not many alterations, mainly a sway back adjustment and  shortening the length by 5 cm and an extra 2 cm off the dip off the shirt tail. My body naturally does the high low thing so I'm carefull not to accentuate it.

I added 1 cm to the outline of the pockets as they are tiny. Yes my dress has  the patch pockets but  due to the busy print they don't show. Speaking of pockets this dress is screaming for pockets in the side seams.

I found the armholes go a little low and when I attached the self bias to the armholes I was careful not to trim any of the seam allowance of the armscye when turning down the binding and stitching it in place. If I make the dress again I will raise the armscye by 1 cm but go in a little bit at the top of the shoulder instead.

BTW if I hadn't taken in the sides of the dress by 2cm down the complete side seam the armhole would have possibly been to big to fix and that is the one thing I would be wary of in regard to this pattern.

Stylistically I guess the mannish armhole adds to the 'I chopped the arms off my boyfriends shirt' effect and it does not seen to be an issue in smaller sizes but just check! Measure your arm from shoulder bone to armpit and compare to the flat pattern armhole.

In spite of what sounds like a lot of complaining I have a feeling this may become my new favourite hot weather dress..






My next dilemma - will my zebra rayon become another variation of the Alder with gathers or does it want to be a Style Arc Lola ? Decisions, decisions.

*Actually I am wondering if the Alder with side gathers will a) be wrong for my body or b) be too .. ah.. young for me? Thoughts on this welcome. I don't want to be mutton dressed as zebra with frills :)  

Happy sewing,

Val.

17 comments:

  1. Perfection! I have noticed the sleeveless shirtdress in the shoppes, and want to make one too! Monkey see, monkey do. We are having such a hot summer, your dress is the perfect solution. I like it a lot.

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    1. I think this style would be perfect for you.

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  2. LOL! I don't think you'll be mutton dressed as zebra! I think it would be fine. And rayon is so perfect for that dress... and cool.

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  3. A lovely dress, just perfect for the hot weather. I think you might need the gathered one!

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  4. Lovely version of the Alder. I have recently purchased this pattern too. Just need to find the right fabric. Thanks for sharing all your tips.

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  5. NOT too young for you!!! It's great. I love this pattern in this version. It really is fun to wear, isn't it? Go for it...great fabric, BTW.

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  6. What a lovely hot summer dress.

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  7. This is so cute... Would be cute in denim too..Not to young for you at all.will look nice on you..
    Happy Sewing.

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  8. Thanks ladies. I have decided to do a very quick v-neck gathered skirt version out of a piece of polycotton that I bought for making muslins. It's a bit of extra work but will possibly save a piece of material I don't want to wreck.

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  9. Perfect for these hot summer days.

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  10. Ooh, I do hope you make the v neck variation. I am really interested in that alteration. Love it!

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    1. I've just finished working on my draft of the v neck version, with skirt which I;m glad to say, works on me! I'll be sewing it up soon.

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  11. Perfect dress for our steamy hot days and I will be interested to see your next version.

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  12. Thank you Valerie for your kind words. I am so honour.
    My husband takes my photos, but this more artistic ones have been taken by my daughter who is staying with us at the moment
    XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXx

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  13. Fab dress Val. Love it. Really cool for summer. I vote for the Lola. Love those pants and never been keen on gathers in only one place. Seems to emphasise that place. But that is just stange old me.

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    1. Thanks BeeJay - That is exactly what I was wondering about - but I've tried it on a muslin and surprisingly it works. Will do a post about it soon.

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  14. I think this dress is perfect for the summer months. Very flattering! And yes, a dress like this absolutely needs side seam pockets! I have a pocket pattern from an old Burda style that I keep and re-use all of the time -- so many patterns don't add side seam pockets, even though it would be perfect for the style. Thank you for the caution re: the armhole sizing, and good luck with the zebra rayon!

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