Saturday, 27 June 2015

V8991 Claire Shaeffer Jacket


When I first saw Claire Shaeffer's Custom Couture Collection jacket by Vogue I fell in love with it
 V8991  and bought it then put it in the 'someday' pile. Meanwhile, I'd bought some pure wool from Emma One Sock to make a zippered jacket but the Vogue kept coming to mind because the weave of the wool was a much looser than I expected. I could not make up my mind so I decided to make a 'quick' muslin of V8991.  'Quick'? Yes, I'd laugh at me too.



Spring weight wearable muslin, with the sleeves back.


Sleeves turned down, but I forgot to button the jacket


The collar sits snugly against the back neck


Oh my Goodness 105 steps of instructions


V8991 is a beautiful pattern, classic, Chanel inspired, expertly drafted Clare Sheaffer jacket. Why had it not been reviewed? A search of the internet turned up a lot of people talking about it and pinning it but only one entry that I could find of someone who had actually made it, beautifully, but even that was a modified version. Have a look at all the 'V8991' posts on cloning couture I was awed by her technique.

I carefully read the pattern instructions and found out, Oh my, they are not half hearted about the 'couture' part either. To make this jacket as instructed is very labor intensive. Ignoring my slightly overawed feeling I decided to make a trial run.

I used a stretch woven from the stash because I could visualise it made up as a spring jacket. I know I should have used wool for a muslin but I was not willing to outlay the cost for something that might not work. Anyway, I applied knit interfacing to all the pieces to stabilise them then started assembling, tweaking the fit as I went. I found the fit to be good. The seams on this garment are beautiful. The armhole is high-ish but not constricting, the collar sits nicely. I did not do the darts in the back, preferring to tweak the fit through the side panel seams.

I simplified the sleeves and made them without the curved vent. I omitted all the hand and machine quilting and hem chain and braid. I left the pockets till almost last. I suspected under boob pockets would do me no favours so I moved them down.

My main adjustment was to the sleeve caps. A certain amount of easing in of the caps goes with this style of sleeve but I still found it too much and they did not sit right until I cut down the sleeve caps from notch to notch by one size. Then they sat correctly on me. I suspect this is a quirk of my shoulder structure because I do this with almost every pattern company except Burda.

I found the sleeves overly long and shortened them by an inch, simply doing a deeper hem. Also, for some reason I had always avoided doing buttonholes across the grain for jackets but I did them that way this time as part of my experimentations and it works well, not to mention being easier to do, avoiding the bulky edge.

The conclusion? Even though I changed the mood of this jacket with my material choice - stretch woven, knit interfacing, stretch satin lining - all from the stash, I am impressed with this offering from Vogue. Would I make it again? Properly? Yes definitely.

Should I make the real deal from my lovely basket weave black pure wool or would I look too 'where's the funeral'? Opinions please! The alternative is maybe a simple jacket along the lines of veste michelle

BTW the fabric recommendations for the Vogue jacket are Wool Tweed, Wool Crepe, Boiled Wool..there's a theme going on there. It does cry out for a material that is expensive and delicious and a silk lining to make all the work worthwhile.

I'll be doing a Pattern Review soon.
See you,
Val.


14 comments:

  1. Great review. I have always wondered about those couture patterns. I say make another one with fabric you really love!

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    1. Thanks Pegsewer I do have dome stash silk boucle that's been in the 'someday' pile.

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  2. Wow. That's really something! Are you up for one more? I really do like the veste michelle, also the bernadette, from RDC.

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    1. Thanks Coco. I will make the Vogue again, in a good quality wool, but not right now. I've gone back to the pattern I had in mind when I bought my wool and I'm going with that. It is B5958 but with the button closure instead of the zip. Don't know why it didn't occur to me before.

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  3. Your jacket looks fantastic and thank you for the detailed review. I attend the week long workshop with Claire in Armidale this year and yes her patterns are very detailed and you soon get used to basting!

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  4. A beautiful and elegant jacket, made from a lovely pattern Val. But it does look like a lot of work (it's been years since I made a jacket of this type)! It will look good made in wool, or silk, or just about anything good!

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  5. You look so elegant in it! -but I know what you mean about it`s coture-ness...I own a copy of V8804 and I can`t really get around to make it! All those steps... I don't think I fit in that category yet!

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  6. Great casual jacket. Having taken classes with Claire, I can tell you, the wool recommendations come from molding the garment with steam along the way and wool responds beautifully. Claire's patterns are a sewing course in themselves and we all should challenge ourselves to one every now and then.

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  7. "...I cut down the sleeve caps from notch to notch by one size."

    This is a great way to reduce sleep cap ease! Thank you for this tip.

    I have a couple of Claire Shaeffer's patterns but have been slightly intimidated by the number of instructions. Good on you for tackling the pattern; you have a wonderfully fitting jacket as a result!

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  8. This looks very elegant! The wool tweed has my vote for the next one.

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  9. I love thesepatterns for sewing, my mind is already coming up with lots of variations and pattern hacks.

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  10. I have this pattern, silk for lining and wool & was so intimidated after reading through the instructions, it's the reason I've landed on your page - one of many I'm reading in an effort to figure out the best approach. Muslin first, loud and clear from all posts. I've made two couture jackets using Angela Wolf's lesson for sewing a Contemporary Couture Jacket. Love her techniques. I've made two so far, but neither with button holes. I'm really confused about what to do with the front lining/facing regarding buttonholes & whether there is a front facing - looks like the buttonhole area is simply cut & finished on the front lining long after the fashion fabric buttonholes are completed ... and that with this jacket there is no front facing. I think I prefer to do shaping via altering back and side seams rather than Claire's steaming etc. It would probably be a good experience to do the shaping Claire's way, but really, I'm 75 now & probably wouldn't live long enough to see it to the finish ... and folks, I expect to be around another 25 years!

    Thank you for all the tips, links, photos and ideas regarding this pattern. I love the collar and sleeve vents. I will probably change pockets - number and locations. I like pocket s that are really practical & even put in an interior chest pocket on my last couture jacket - travel a lot & it's the perfect place for phone, passport, tickets & money. Thanks & please post more!

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  11. I have this pattern, silk for lining and wool & was so intimidated after reading through the instructions, it's the reason I've landed on your page - one of many I'm reading in an effort to figure out the best approach. Muslin first, loud and clear from all posts. I've made two couture jackets using Angela Wolf's lesson for sewing a Contemporary Couture Jacket. Love her techniques. I've made two so far, but neither with button holes. I'm really confused about what to do with the front lining/facing regarding buttonholes & whether there is a front facing - looks like the buttonhole area is simply cut & finished on the front lining long after the fashion fabric buttonholes are completed ... and that with this jacket there is no front facing. I think I prefer to do shaping via altering back and side seams rather than Claire's steaming etc. It would probably be a good experience to do the shaping Claire's way, but really, I'm 75 now & probably wouldn't live long enough to see it to the finish ... and folks, I expect to be around another 25 years!

    Thank you for all the tips, links, photos and ideas regarding this pattern. I love the collar and sleeve vents. I will probably change pockets - number and locations. I like pocket s that are really practical & even put in an interior chest pocket on my last couture jacket - travel a lot & it's the perfect place for phone, passport, tickets & money. Thanks & please post more!

    ReplyDelete
  12. Im sewing this jacket and I'm have an issue with piece 1 front and 6 side front going together at the top quarter part. It is a bit big and not lining up. Is there something special I need to do for this part?

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