Thursday, 3 December 2015

Tessuti 'Kate' Top


Hi guys.

If you've read my previous post you know that I have some silk left over from my previous project to make a simple shell top.

I'd searched the sites and come across Tessuit's Kate sleeveless top. I bought it, downloaded it then spent an evening cutting and sticky taping. Garghghghgh. Not so instant gratification.

On to the top. I think I fall in-between a Medium and  Large in Tessuit's sizes so I cut a large and got out some cotton to give it a go. It's a bit heavier than the pattern recommends. The bias trims are doubled over, sewn on and then flipped over to hide the seam and stitched down. It's a nice finish but it ends up a bit bulky if you don't use a lightweight fabric.







Conclusion:  The pattern, which is basically a subtle swing top with vents, is good but a little too cut in at the front of the arm for my not so bony shoulders. View A is quite short - I am barely 5 foot/155 cm and I would not want it any shorter. The dart is quite shallow but nicely positioned, the neckline is nice. The generous self lining on the vents and 1 1/4" hem are all nice.
The front curved hemline did not work on me so I evened it out a little.
The instructions for the sleeve bias finish on the neckline and sleeves is good.

Recommendation:  Read the instructions first. This is where you find out that the vents and the hem are 1 1/4" wide so you have to be careful to cut the vents along the correct line (what looks like two sizes out). Yes I cut the wrong line then pasted those bits back on again, luckily it was still at the paper stage when I was cutting and sticky taping the print out together.
The hem depth is not written anywhere on the pattern, or the width of the vent facing.
Re the length, the pattern does have shorten/lengthen lines, which I have already adjusted for next time.

Other changes:  I added a CB seam to do my easy version of the back neck slit. It's also less hassle to cut out.

Will I make it again? Yes, but I am glad I made this muslin. I've adjusted the front armhole, the front hem and the length.

Conclusion:  A cute summer top for silk or lightweight linen or cotton.
I like the pattern and I like the top even though for me it is a little too cut in at the armhole.
I'm hoping with adjustments for the width of my shoulders the next one will be just the thing.

Happy sewing,

Val.

7 comments:

  1. Love this discussion of the pattern - and what pretty fabric. Well, age and arms - I went thru a period in which I felt that mine were best covered, but I've gotten over it! The world belongs to everyone and I'm determined to enjoy my little acreage my own way. Swing tops? love them - you ain't got a thing if you ain't got that swing.... :-)

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    1. Thanks Coco. It's pretty much anything goes here in summer but watch out - more tops are coming. Oh and my daughter offered to take this one if I didn't want it ;))

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  2. Oh, technology. It pains when they fail to work at times where we find ourselves so eager to start a DIY for your home project, isn’t it? I remembered a similar story when I was so frustrated with my laptop and printer; I gave my laptop and printer a huge whack! It still worked, by the way. LOL!

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    1. Thanks Kristine. I guess I should update my printer, but I can't be bothered outlaying the expense!

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  3. I like your review of this pattern as like you I am not happy with out of the printer. I tried mine on the other night whilst trying to work out the best way to stitch the spilt and hem and I look pregnant, not a look I am after.

    You said you straightened the front curved hem, is this just straightening it out or did you take out some of the fullness?

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    1. Thank you for commenting Sharon! On this material, which was admittedly a bit heavy for this style I just straightened the front curve a tiny bit across the hem, 1cm at CF tapering to the sides. I did not alter the sides of the top. They do not swing out too much on me but you have a slighter build.
      Note - On a softer drapier material I put the front hem curve back. It was needed in order for the top to fall correctly.

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  4. I refuse to buy this pattern as it so simple. Nonetheless, your version looks great and I'm sure you'll make a few this summer.

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