When I first saw Claire Shaeffer's Custom Couture Collection jacket by Vogue I fell in love with it
V8991 and bought it then put it in the 'someday' pile. Meanwhile, I'd bought some pure wool from Emma One Sock to make a zippered jacket but the Vogue kept coming to mind because the weave of the wool was a much looser than I expected. I could not make up my mind so I decided to make a 'quick' muslin of V8991. 'Quick'? Yes, I'd laugh at me too.
Spring weight wearable muslin, with the sleeves back.
Sleeves turned down, but I forgot to button the jacket
The collar sits snugly against the back neck
Oh my Goodness 105 steps of instructions
V8991 is a beautiful pattern, classic, Chanel inspired, expertly drafted Clare Sheaffer jacket. Why had it not been reviewed? A search of the internet turned up a lot of people talking about it and pinning it but only one entry that I could find of someone who had actually made it, beautifully, but even that was a modified version. Have a look at all the 'V8991' posts on cloning couture I was awed by her technique.
I carefully read the pattern instructions and found out, Oh my, they are not half hearted about the 'couture' part either. To make this jacket as instructed is very labor intensive. Ignoring my slightly overawed feeling I decided to make a trial run.
I used a stretch woven from the stash because I could visualise it made up as a spring jacket. I know I should have used wool for a muslin but I was not willing to outlay the cost for something that might not work. Anyway, I applied knit interfacing to all the pieces to stabilise them then started assembling, tweaking the fit as I went. I found the fit to be good. The seams on this garment are beautiful. The armhole is high-ish but not constricting, the collar sits nicely. I did not do the darts in the back, preferring to tweak the fit through the side panel seams.
I simplified the sleeves and made them without the curved vent. I omitted all the hand and machine quilting and hem chain and braid. I left the pockets till almost last. I suspected under boob pockets would do me no favours so I moved them down.
My main adjustment was to the sleeve caps. A certain amount of easing in of the caps goes with this style of sleeve but I still found it too much and they did not sit right until I cut down the sleeve caps from notch to notch by one size. Then they sat correctly on me. I suspect this is a quirk of my shoulder structure because I do this with almost every pattern company except Burda.
I found the sleeves overly long and shortened them by an inch, simply doing a deeper hem. Also, for some reason I had always avoided doing buttonholes across the grain for jackets but I did them that way this time as part of my experimentations and it works well, not to mention being easier to do, avoiding the bulky edge.
The conclusion? Even though I changed the mood of this jacket with my material choice - stretch woven, knit interfacing, stretch satin lining - all from the stash, I am impressed with this offering from Vogue. Would I make it again? Properly? Yes definitely.
Should I make the real deal from my lovely basket weave black pure wool or would I look too 'where's the funeral'? Opinions please! The alternative is maybe a simple jacket along the lines of veste michelle
BTW the fabric recommendations for the Vogue jacket are Wool Tweed, Wool Crepe, Boiled Wool..there's a theme going on there. It does cry out for a material that is expensive and delicious and a silk lining to make all the work worthwhile.
I'll be doing a Pattern Review soon.