Monday, 28 March 2016

M7254 and sewing pleather

A while ago I saw View C of McCall's 7254 knit jacket done up in a black stable knit with a black pleather border and feeling inspired I bought some beautiful black quilted knit and black pleather from Emma One sock and planned to do the same for my daughter who took one look at the pattern and materials and said 'Can you just make view A from the pleather please?'


View A and Line Art

The pleather, though soft and supple does not have the give of a knit so I went up a size then ran up a muslin and  modified the fronts to have more coverage. When we had the fronts and the sizing right I set about googling information about sewing pleather/leather.

How to sew with pleather:

Use a leather needle. I did, a Klasse 90. It worked very well.

Don't use pins, use clips on the edges. I bought pink mini binder clips from Office Works. I also bought some wooden pegs from Bunnings and ended up using a combination of both.

Don't use an iron.

Use a teflon or walking foot. I have a walking foot and I put Scotch Tape on the bottom of the foot at the front and the back to make it a bit slipperier. A walking foot feeds the material along from the top while the feed dogs do the same at the bottom. Have I ever told you how much I love my walking foot?

Use glue to keep the seam allowances open, press in place or bang with a rubber mallet. Well, I couldn't find any special leather glues in Lincraft or Spotlight but once again Bunnings Hardware store to the rescue. In the craft section I found 'Boyle' Tacky Glue for Wood, Leather Textiles, Cork and so on. 
I applied the glue in the seam allowances with a small sponge and pressed the seams open with my fingers and had no problem.

Use a longish stitch. I used 3mm stitches fro the seams and 3.4mm for the topstitching.

Lastly, this is my own hint - put a eyelet in each corner of the front and back bodice pieces at the underarms for ventilation, 4cm from the corners before you sew the side and underarm seams.

Pattern notes:  After modifying the front of the pattern to fit I made pattern pieces for 7.5cm wide facings for the neck, back and sides. I assembled the shell, then attached the facings, then assembled the lining shell and attached it to the facing. The lining has a CB ease pleat. I left a 12cm temporary opening in one of the lining side seams so I could pull the sleeves through and do the sleeve hems one at a time. I had already pressed the sleeve lining seam allowances back, and after I I glued the jacket sleeve hems up I put the lining in place and topstitched through all layers. If I had thought it through better I would do the sleeve hem gluing before sewing the sleeves in but I managed. It was a puzzle it out as you go effort!

Result? DD loves it. It's what she envisioned.

The rest of the outfit is Top: Simplicity 1366 Cynthia Rowley in a floral knit from Pitt Trading, Pants:  Style Arc Elle in  'Premium' Cotton/Elastane from Spotlight, surprisingly nice quality. I bought the end of the roll!

So, that's what I've been up to. I hope you all had a good Easter. Hop in and leave a comment!


  1. Wow, wow, what a great jacket. A fabulous sew and thank you for all the technical detail. My first experience with the pleather last year I bought various clips etc - it is trial and error but you figure out a way. Your daughter looks gorgeous in the jacket and the Elle pants are really good too. I have that pattern but not tried it yet. Looks like a goodie.

  2. Love it! I have lots of pleather and also leather and this would be a great pattern. Thanks for the inspiration!

  3. Oh wow! you really did it right - stunning. And all your techniques and tips are so interesting. Very nice, Valerie.

  4. Thank you all. Justin's I brought the front curve out by about 7cm so the fronts almost touch - even though it does't look like it in the photo. I think you will rock the pleather look!

  5. What a great way to turn this pattern into a knockout! It was a giant fail for me, but I'm glad to see everyone else have success with it.

    1. Sorry to hear that but thank you for your comment.

  6. Great jacket and it looks fantastic on DD. No wonder she's thrilled.

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