Tuesday, 6 December 2016

B6024 Top


Butterick 6024 is a versatile smock top that can look arty, casual, boho or just summery according to variations of it I've seen on the web. The version that first caught my eye was a floaty white artist smock that I saw on the McCalls blog Facebook page. A google search turned up some other great variations as well.  Anyway..
I sent away for the pattern. It wasn't on the books here because our two big fabric chain stores are so slow to move with the times that they only keep pattern books that are one issue behind. It's frustrating and I don't think they realise the sales that they are missing especially now that they don't have $5 dollar sales any more. Time to talk to store managers I think and voice dissatisfaction.




Butterick 6024


I made up View A without the duck tail out of a lovely Liberty cotton jersey from The Fabric Store and have been wearing it often. I am going to make it up in a floaty multi coloured speckled voile in my stash. Trying to decide on sleeves or no sleeves :)


Those cute flowers are really a fly swatter..

My alterations:  The pattern is designed for lightweight wovens but I made it from a one way moderate stretch jersey. The usual recommendation is to go down a size for knits but when I had a look at the pattern pieces I decided to stay with my usual medium size for the front but had to do something about the enormously wide back neck. I have straight square wide shoulders and paradoxically this kind of neckline (on me) needs bringing in either through the body of the back or at the side neck to sit properly. I considered doing back neck darts but then I ended up folding a vertical pleat out of the whole back piece to effectly bring the back piece down to a size small. Also the whole neckline sits a bit lower than in the illustrations so I will raise it 2 cm on the next version. I folded out a tiny sway back alteration at the waist. (see last photo)
On the next version the vertical back fold will be folded out and turned into a pleat sewn down partway like those at the front..maybe.



The pattern has you finish neck and armholes with bias strips attached then folded to the inside and stitched. I cut mine on the crosswise stretch one size shorter to take out a weeny bit of stretch. The neckline became a neckline border instead of folded in. I turned the armhole ones under and stitched as per instructions.
My pleats are folded to the inside not outside as I did not want to top stitch them and I pressed them all going in one direction when I was finishing the neckline. The directions have four pressed one way and five pressed another. This doesn't make sense from a construction or appearance viewpoint IMHO.
Also, on my next version I will bring out the side shoulders 2cm tapering to nothing at the armpit to give more of a cap sleeve effect. That's because of me not the pattern, for the previously mentioned wide shoulders.


Vertical 1cm folded out to reduce overall width, Horizontal small sway back adjustment 

It sounds like I tweaked it a lot but it did not take long. This is a quick sew and the pleats are placed beautifully and makes for a nice summer pattern.

Happy sewing,
Val.



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5 comments:

  1. Love this on you! I am working on this same pattern right now, except in microsuede. The jury is still out on whether this was a good idea or not;)

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  2. A flattering top and the changes you made to the back width is interesting. Love the fly swat.

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  3. It is an excellent pattern and a lovely Summer top perfect for the season. I am always fascinated reading your alterations; you really have a handle on what to do to make things fit beautifully. I think I have bought one pattern locally in about three years, for the reasons you state. They are behind the times and not competitive in our shops. My machine has gone in for a service while the visitors occupy the sewing room, and I miss it already!

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  4. Wonderful! you look so fresh and cute. Perfect! This is one of my favorite patterns, and I have the same issue with the wide neck, thank goodness it's easy to fix. This fabric is marvelous!

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  5. Thanks ladies. I'm itching to make another one but at the moment my life feels like it's mostly working and sleeping and looking forward to a break over Christmas 😄

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